quito, ecuador july 26, 2003 we’re bussing and bumping along. we know the routine by now. we’ve tried to shorten our distances. not bus for ten hours at a stretch. make more stops. banos. amato. latacunga. still on l’avenida de los volcanos. in central ecuador. cotopaxi having replaced chimborazo as the volcano de jour. it’s one of the pleasures of bussing for me – watching the scenery change out the window. while wati tries to snooze her way through these trips - that she sees more as unpleasant, time-consuming ordeals - i soak up the countryside -- the constant turnover of local t
Photos: South America, 2013: people
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Photos: South America, 2013: mo’ photos: peru y bolivia
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xmas in new york 2002
autumn, 2002 arrived back from malaysia on august 30th, already a week late for classes. all too immediately, and not much to my liking, hurtled back into the too comfortable, and oh so familiar, LA routine: wake at 6, doze, worry, plan, look at my indonesian princess still sleeping next to me in my doubly occupied king size bed; stretch, shower, e-mail, walk the dog, fill up the tank, teach, drive, shop, dinner at 7, sleep, wake, shit, read the LA times. a few variations and arguments in between. as if i hadn't been gone for 8 months at all. as if - no borneo. or kuala l
Borneo, 2002: chapter 1, the iron horse and the bucket brigade
swimming with turtles I'm floating face down in the calm sulu sea. sort of like william holden in the opening scene of sunset boulevard. not dead in norma desmond's over-chlorinated, tepid swimming pool, but floating in the briny sulu sea off the east coast of borneo. floating? well, not exactly that either. i'm gently kicking my blue flipper-clad feet, snorkeling in the sulu sea off selingan island, one of the three protected "turtle islands" off the east coast of sabah about ten kilometers from the philippines. the water is pristinely clear, the coral more dead than alive, more pale whi
Borneo, 2002: chapter 2, swimming with turtles
swimming with turtles i'm floating face down in the calm sulu sea. sort of like william holden in the opening scene of sunset boulevard. not dead in norma desmond's over-chlorinated, tepid swimming pool, but floating in the briny sulu sea off the east coast of borneo. floating? well, not exactly that either. i'm gently kicking my blue flipper-clad feet, snorkeling in the sulu sea off selingan island, one of the three protected "turtle islands" off the east coast of sabah about ten kilometers from the philippines. the water is pristinely clear, the coral more dead than alive, more pale whi
Borneo, 2002: chapter 3, slow! clouded leopard lane
Slow! clouded leopard lane leapin' lemurs! rushin' rhinocerii! just when he thought he was lost at the bottom of the deep blue sulu sea, he miraculously flash gordoned out of an unforeseen anti-sink escape hole in the green-turtled aquashere and catapulted skyward back to the hum drum safety and routine of mega-malled kota kinabalu. not to worry... chapter 3. it's another dazzlingly black east sabahan night filled with the twinklings of an infinity of stars and the huge yellow "bulan" crawling up the horizon. he and his girl are on night safari in the "tabin" wildlife r
Borneo, 2002: chapter 4, VOODOO
he's back in yankee stadium, the green grass-brown earth memory dome of 1956, back when mickey mantle's triple crown was the greatest thing a long island jew boy could worship, before jfk was shot, the vietnam war took off america's rose-colored glasses, and mantle became just another oklahoma dolt who drank too much and embarrassed himself in public. he's standing there right next to mantle - who's there in the on deck circle. maybe he's the bat boy, but he's standing there next to number seven, "the mick", and he's sporting his own bronx bomber uniform, th
Borneo, 2002: chapter 5, so enough about me…. wish you were here
so, enough about me you want to know about the food the people well fuck you i mean fine what can i tell you? it's all about me right? like it's all about you okay your kids your husbands, wives, mothers, fathers your job your country, investments your home, hearts, lungs, kidneys, backs same fucking thing but you insist you want to know what's behind these smiling brown faces their inherent modesty their endearing but evasive self consciousness why do they look to the west? well, there's this one dude who
Borneo, 2002: chapter 6, pedagogy
pedagogy so.. some of you doubting toms and tomettes seem to think that I NEVER WORK oh yeah i've gotten the subtle suggestions, the caustic remarks i can see you all sitting there with those knowing, self-satisfied smiles on your faces "ah, that trules has done it again pulled another fast one gotten another subsidized free ride to the far side of the world just to continue his self-indulgent dawdling his lazy-ass peter pan philandering his verbotic, self-centered mis-adventuring" oh yeah i can hear those nasty, ungenerous thoughts i can read between the silences and