South America, 2003: chapter 7, love and the devil’s nose

alausi, ecuador, july, 2003 que tal, mi compadres?     we are bussing north from cuenca along l'avenida de los volcanos. so called for obvious reasons. between cuenca in the south of ecuador and quito in the north, all along the north-south pan american highway, there is a startling and magnifico series of snow capped volcanoes, dominating the skyline for hundreds and hundreds of kilometers. it is a tourist's, backpacker's, hiker's, mountaineer's, and traveler's highway to heaven. both dormant and active volcanoes, the highest of the latter has devastated the local provincial

South America, 2003: chapter 8, baptism in banos

riobamba y banos, ecuador surprisingly - without more incident - we survive el nariz del diablo and bus our way to riobamba. yes, it's true, an inordinate amount of towns end in "bamba" here in ecuador. i don't think it's a tribute to ritchie valens, but more to the bailar, the dance, in the air. local bussing is the way to see a country. not the tourist busses, which can be more comfortable, efficient, and expensive; but when you’re surrounded entirely by fellow gringos, as opposed to locals on their way to and from reality, how much indigenous life can you really expect to see? the answer

Photos: South America, 2003, Los Andes

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Photos: South America, 2013: boats, birds, & waterlife

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Photos: South America, 2013: south american churches

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Photos: South America, 2013: amazon jungle/iquitos, peru

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Photos: South America, 2013: central equador

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Photos: South America, 2013: magical unreality, high above quito

quito, ecuador july 26, 2003 we’re bussing and bumping along. we know the routine by now. we’ve tried to shorten our distances. not bus for ten hours at a stretch. make more stops. banos. amato. latacunga. still on l’avenida de los volcanos. in central ecuador. cotopaxi having replaced chimborazo as the volcano de jour. it’s one of the pleasures of bussing for me – watching the scenery change out the window. while wati tries to snooze her way through these trips - that she sees more as unpleasant, time-consuming ordeals - i soak up the countryside -- the constant turnover of local t

Photos: South America, 2013: people

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Photos: South America, 2013: mo’ photos: peru y bolivia

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