pamukkale, turkey June, 2010 mercifully, the bus trip from olympos to pamukkale is only about 4 air conditioned hours. and can you believe it, we even make it while there's still daylight? of course, we do have to take another private shuttle from the main bus station in downtown denizli, an urban wasteland in the middle of southwestern turkey, but we are greeted in pamukkale by our pension host, who walks us to the artemis, just a minute from the one horse bus station. now pamukkale's claim to fame is its astonishing white "travertines", its calcium-rich terraces made of sedimentary rock
Turkey, 2010: chapter 6, ephesus and the fall of the roman empire
selcuk, turkey anyone ever read "the history of the decline and fall of the roman empire" by edward gibbon? probably not. me neither. but i did listen to a mouth-watering chunk of it on "books on tape" while driving through life along the LA freeways at the zenith of the american empire at the beginning of the 21st century. anyway, gibbon's masterpiece of interpretive modern history first published in 1776 is a sprawling, 6-volume account of the period of the roman empire after marcus aurelius, from 180 to 1453 AD, concluding in 1590. it conjectures about the behavior and decisions that led
Photos: Turkey, 2010; people
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Photos Turkey 2010: istanbul, my brothers and sisters!
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Photos Turkey, 2010: kapadokya, ‘land of fairy chimneys’
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Jamiaca, 2009, chapter 1: stingey-mon an’ de flip flops
chapter 1 july 11, 2009 portland parish, east coast, jamaica yah, mon, dat be me. stingey-mon. in a heavenly place on de island called zion country. jamaica, mon. me be in de prom ised land, you know? after de captivity in babylon? maybe kingston, mon? me walk back across de desert to zion. cause you know, kingston be very rough, mon. jimmy cliff, tuff gong (bob marley)? dey be long gone, mon. but de studio in tuff gong's name still be dere, exploiting de marley-mon's name. and all de hungry rastas, and rappas, and hustlas, dey be in de streets, mon, like on de bowery in manhattan when m
jamaica, 2009, chapter 2: “stitchie mon”
chapter 2 july 13, 2009 port antonio, jamaica dat be stitchie-mon. he be a true rastafari. he live in de bush up country in zion an' he grow his own food, own his own house, and smoke de ganja 24 hours a day. dere is a natural plantation behind his house an' in it grow mango and coconut, ackee and calilou, breadfruit and yam. de wife an' i meet him behind de counter of his black, yellow, green, an' red rasta hut (de first 3 be de colors of de jamaican flag, de red be used only by de rastafari), from which he sell many simple tings: water and mango juice, coca cola and coconut, and of cour
Jamaica, 2009, chapter 3: “stingey mon”!
chapter 3 july 15, 2009 manchoneal, jamaica it be 2 days later, mon, an' sad to say, we be on our way, won't be back for many a day, our heart is down, our head is turning around, we have to leave de zion country an' portland town..... but... before we do, de stitchie-mon say we have to go to de "reach falls" in manchoneal, just tree kilometers down de road. it turn out it be monday, mon, which be very good, 'cause de reach falls be closed to de public on monday & tuesdays... which mean dat stitchie-mon can call his udder rasta friend, lion-mon, to take us up de back way... which mea
Cuba, 2009, chapter 1, or how fidel kicked my yanqui ass
--the great thing about travel stories is how very often they write themselves-- chapter 1 july 18, 2009 havana, cuba just landed in la habana, chicos y chicas! a quick, but expensive, 1 hour flight from montego bay, jamaica, to... the land of fidel. no longer the quick 75 buck, two prop, plane ride from back in the day, it's now the big buck, maxi-exploitation fare from any and all cooperating countries ferrying still-illegal american travelers to... the land of fidel. still... it's exciting as hell. not only the illegal, will-i-get-caught part, but even more, the chance to see commu
Cuba, 2009, chapter 2: Yanqui come back
still havana.... okay... okay... cuba does have its charms. primero... el ron! the rum. not bacardi. no, fidel threw those capitalist swine out a long time ago. now it's havana club. cheap... and... muy bueno! but since raoul completely closed down the marijuana and drug trade, also years ago, it's the only recreational game in town. and yeah, okay.... "buena vista social club" music still plays full force every night of the week en la plazas of tourist-friendly old habana. and true... the classic cars and retro architecture certainly capture the fast eddie felson style and imagination of t