june 15th luang prabang, laos life in laos? slower. gentler. more flow, fewer touts. touts = aggressive, vietnamese tourist hawker/scammer/solicitors. what's flowing here? the mighty mekong, biensur. even vientiane, the lao (rhymes with wow!) capital, still seems a run down, laid back, french-asian colonial burg - early baja, california - say, 1980. still dirt roads. instead of burros, they have chickens and water buffalo - just roaming the damn streets - along with locals and ex-pats and tuk tuks (here a 3 wheel wells fargo pony express kinda tran
South East Asia, 2000, chapter 10, “the trip”
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South East Asia, 2000, chapter 11, out in it – northern thailand
june 26-- chiang mai, thailand pad thai, amigos-- they say every day is an adventure, right? one day it's elephant camps, waterfalls, and river rafting; the next it's hill tribe villages, opium dens, and "massages". "same-same." (southeast asia euphemism for "it's all the same thing, dudes"). so -- it's been another week since my last "trip", and although you may be fed up with my travels/travails, i'm still out in it, trying to cope. bites, scratches, bruises. rivers, mountains, jungles. mangos, papayas, durians. boats, planes, bike
South East Asia, 2000, chapter 12, the dutch east indies — malacca
july 2 malacca (melaka), malaysia merde!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i'm siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick!!!! the traveler's worst companion, ill health. just a common cold - i hope -- or the southeast asian flu. however, at the moment, my yuppie-santa monica boulevard-capital drugs-chinese herbs don't seem to be doing the same trick they do in LA. i need a new malay alternative doctor. and wouldn't you just know it, i just stayed with one, in kuala lumpur -- my first servas host in southeast asia. unfortunately, she wasn't there away on holiday -- but her sweet, gracious,
South East Asia, 2000, chapter 13, wild man of borneo
july, 5, 2000 kuching, east malaysia dearest homo sapiens-- Damn. i tried, but i couldn't quite get myself to the idyllic island of bali high - indonesia. not yet. so -- i just had to come to -- sarawak - east malaysia - otherwise known as northwest -- borneo. how could i not come to - borneo? remember all those wild man/headhunter stories they fed us american baby boom kids about the savages of borneo? well, i do. so lusting for savagery -- and beauty -- and adventure -- and pristine jungle greenery -- and... and exotic wood carving, phallic totem poles, vengeful head-hunting,
South East Asia, 2000, chapter 14, ba-leeeeeeeeeeeeeeee with tim robbins and susan f-ing sarandon
july 11, 2000 ubud, indonesia fair weather amigos-- So here i am -- jam packed and crushed in amidst 20,000 local and tourist folk -- at a cremation ceremony in the public graveyard of central ubud. i've finally made it to fanciful and amazing bali. and i came right here to ubud. in a thirty mile, nine dollar taxi. right from the airport. not to denpasar the commercial hub right near the airport. nor to trendy kuta beach with all the beverly hills shops, cheap hotels, and the hordes of australian surfers. no -- ubud. the north central baline
South East Asia, 2000, Photos
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Middle East, 1999, chapter 1, the wandering jew
Tel aviv, may 13, 1999 Hello american pig capitalist swine (and you euro pigs too)!! ooops, just kidding. i thought i was back in jerusalem, having cute little, trouble-eyed palestinian kids slam into me while walking through the arab quarter, and then curse me out for slamming into them. bringing up the whole macro picture here: who's the aggressor? who's the victim? why, oh why, dear rodney, "can't we all just get along?" hope you all don't mind this group e-mail. i know it's a little impersonal, but hey, i'm sitting here at an internet cafe near dizengoff center, sipping
Middle East, 1999, chapter 2, benny and me – the west bank
May 15, 1999 Jerusalem, bethlehem & hebron Towards the end of my stay in jerusalem, my blunt and curious german friend from berlin has come to join me in rehavia at the moravs, my diplomatic hosts and friends. not being one to beat around the bush, he quickly invites me to accompany him to the west bank in his mercedes benz. now "benny", nee "hans", was born to a family sympathetic to hitler and the nazis during the war. having made a small fortune in berlin in various alternative lifestyle fields, and now approaching forty, benny is understandably, more than a little fed up with
Middle East, 1999, chapter 3, tel aviv – a far cry from jerusalem
May 16, 1999 Tel aviv There's no place better in all of israel to escape the pressure and omnipresence of fanatical religion than its cultural and feel good capital, tel aviv. trendy sheinkin street - where every hipster, ex-pat, filmmaker and wannabe filmmaker come to be seen on friday afternoon decked out like beatniks on bleecker in the 50s, hippies on haight in the 60s, punks on picadilly in the 70s, rockers on melrose in the 80s, but completely israel in the 90s. dizengoff center - the biggest american mall clone in the mideast: gaps, cokes, nikes, everyone trying to be like mike-