iquitos, peru white puffy, cotton candy cumulus clouds blowing over the muddy brown horizon. with portentous gray underbellies, promising or threatening, rain, depending on how you look at it. but rain it will be. at least a few times a day. in iquitos, peru. northeast, far over the andes, up towards the colombia and brazilian borders. where you can find the source of el grande rio amazonas, take a river boat - or raft for that matter - and float down the great waterway of south america - and in 19 days - reach the atlantic ocean 3000 miles away. no roads here connecting the
South America, 2003: chapter 5, huacas and huaringas
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South America, 2003: chapter 6, bienvenidos al ecua-dor
cuenca, ecuador july 9, 2003 “bienvenidos al ecuador" that's what the huge, cranberry and gold banner says hanging over the road as we de-board the bus - and walk the no man's land between the peruvian and ecuadorian borders. that's the way they do it by land. no airports. first de-board and line up to see peruvian immigration, get stamped "out", then another hundred meters by foot (fortunately they have enough mercy to allow your bags to stay on the bus), then over the border - usually a river - to get stamped "in" by ecuadorian immigration. of course this usually works smoothly and
South America, 2003: chapter 7, love and the devil’s nose
alausi, ecuador, july, 2003 que tal, mi compadres? we are bussing north from cuenca along l'avenida de los volcanos. so called for obvious reasons. between cuenca in the south of ecuador and quito in the north, all along the north-south pan american highway, there is a startling and magnifico series of snow capped volcanoes, dominating the skyline for hundreds and hundreds of kilometers. it is a tourist's, backpacker's, hiker's, mountaineer's, and traveler's highway to heaven. both dormant and active volcanoes, the highest of the latter has devastated the local provincial
South America, 2003: chapter 8, baptism in banos
riobamba y banos, ecuador surprisingly - without more incident - we survive el nariz del diablo and bus our way to riobamba. yes, it's true, an inordinate amount of towns end in "bamba" here in ecuador. i don't think it's a tribute to ritchie valens, but more to the bailar, the dance, in the air. local bussing is the way to see a country. not the tourist busses, which can be more comfortable, efficient, and expensive; but when you’re surrounded entirely by fellow gringos, as opposed to locals on their way to and from reality, how much indigenous life can you really expect to see? the answer
Photos: South America, 2003, Los Andes
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Photos: South America, 2013: boats, birds, & waterlife
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Photos: South America, 2013: south american churches
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Photos: South America, 2013: amazon jungle/iquitos, peru
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Photos: South America, 2013: central equador
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