july 4, 1999

tel aviv – los angeles

it’s my last day in tel aviv. my last day in israel. my last day in the mideast.

i’m going home. sad. i stick to my routine – do nothing new or out of the

ordinary. i take my walk, buy leora and roni, my generous neve tzedek hosts,

some fresh-cut flowers from the market, and oh yes, i buy a “USA today” – that’s

new. i see my maniacal candy stand vendor – from a distance – the one who

threatened to bash my skull in with a club just a few days back. i make sure he

doesn’t spot me out of the crowd. to my surprise though, i’m not afraid. i have

my doubts that he’d even recognize me at all.

i make a small breakfast, scour

leora’s kitchen, clean the bathroom, and straighten the bed. i walk down to the

beach, take a swim, and linger to watch the burnt orange ball of a sun set

gracefully over the mediterranean. the various swimmers, walkers, tourists,

frisbee throwers, and drummers on the beach are all backlit in silhouette; it’s

as resonant and memorable as a picture post card. in fact, i take my last photo,

hearing the ratchet sound of the film rewind in the camera – like an instant

replay of my entire journey.

click: white-stoned, divided and historical jerusalem; i’ve just arrived at the

moravs in rehavia. click: late-night, trendy and cultural tel aviv; benny and i

cruise the white beach and neon streets. click: the chaotic palestinian west

bank; i reluctantly put on “tallit” & “tefillin” in the cave of makhpela. click:

russian immigrant haifa and the north; yaron, the dungeon master takes me to

fortified akko. click: the arid negev and too many buses back and across the

parching desert. click: sinai, egypt, cairo, alexandria. bedouins, pyramids,

camels, and durrell. click: upper galilee, following in the footsteps of jesus

of nazareth. click: the golan heights, katushyas, jeep tours, jimmy, & tzipper.

click: amman, jordan, petra, and wadi rum. moses, constantine, saladin, and

sulieman the magnificent. balfour, ben gurion, barak, and arafat. click. click.

click. click.

it’s now nine o’clock. my last night. orlee, dan, leora, and a few other of my

tel avivan friends are all inside dan’s small but well-appointed apartment

watching my documentary film about me and my criminal uncle harvey. i’m sitting

outside on dan’s doorstep, nervously waiting for the film to end and just as

nervously, anticipating my long trip home. in less than three hours, i’ll be in

the air – between two months of adventure and the world of routine. it’s funny,

but here on my last night in israel, i’m actually showing the most personal side

of myself to many of the people i’ve spent my last two months with. the film,

painfully autobiographical and revealing, shows me and my family wrestling over

our contentious ideas and feelings about having a professional criminal in our

midst. when i blame my jewish upbringing for being one of the sources of my

acquisitiveness and my trying to get away with as much as i possibly can, my

parents explode and accuse me of being anti-semitic. it’s a raw and

uncomfortable moment in the film, and one that forever challenges my own sense

of identity as a jew.

                                                              

but as i sit here worrying about yet another audience’s reaction to my

controversial and personally revealing art, i also realize that my trip to

israel has helped me come to terms with some of my eternally problematic

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“jewish” issues. as i’ve already said, i’ve discovered that jews come in many

varieties, not all american. in fact, here in israel there are so many different

kinds, that they haven’t even learned how to accept one another in their own

zionist, jewish state. where jews can be white, brown, black, or anywhere in

between. where they can come from europe, africa, russia, or china. where they

can be liberal, conservative, religious, or secular. tolerant, fanatical,

open-minded or closed. rich, poor, greedy, or not. educated, ignorant,

sophisticated, or crude.

and as i’m sitting here thinking about my neglected LA garden and my friendly

but lonely mutt, i’m also knowing that upon my return, in my daily morning

newspaper ritual, i will be noticing headlines and stories in the “LA times” –

with new eyes. stories about the fractious peace process between israel and

palestine. israel and syria. i’ll be following the same man whose election

victory i saw celebrated in rabin square to such popular acclaim – have to

hammer out workable compromises with both his friends and his enemies. i’ll be

imagining jimmy and his pioneering neighbors having to pull up stakes and give

up their homes – in exchange for peace on the golan heights.

i’ll be envisaging

hassan and his modest wife and family welcoming back their syrian brethren to

their quiet druse community of ein quena. and when i hear about the contested

capital of the newly declared state of palestine, i’ll picture east jerusalem

and its busy damascus gate. in my mind’s eye. i’ll see and hear the call to

prayer of the islamic muezzin from the majestic dome of the rock, sitting just

above the sacred western wailing wall of the old temple – with its omni-present

congregation of black-robed orthodox jews sticking folded prayer notes between

the historic stones. i’ll hear the tolling of christian bells from the church of

the holy sepulcher. i’ll see the rusty sands of joshua’s jericho and the young

israeli ravers in the biblical judean desert. i’ll see crowded cairo, the

noseless sphinx, rose-colored petra, lawrence’s sprawling wadi rum, and the

azure blue waters of the gulf of aqaba.

things mideastern will now be real to me. cities, places, history, events.

characters real too, no longer animated cartoons from a children’s comic book.

kibbutzes, mitzpehs, shekels, shabbats — wadi, mihrab, salaam, baksheesh — all

formerly foreign words from formerly foreign languages – now – all real too.

i’m back on the plane now – from tel aviv’s ben gurion to los angeles’ LAX. in

about fifteen more hours, i’ll be watching american fireworks explode over

dodger stadium for our annual fourth of july holiday. i’ll be wearing the black

and white kaffia i bought from the friendly merchant in the shouk in old

jerusalem’s arab quarter.

my bemused friends and i – we’ll be celebrating our

223rd birthday while the place i’ve just come from will have just celebrated her

50th. but numbers can be deceiving. just like history and politics and people

and places. numbers can be the quantity of citizens lost in a war – or the

sequence of characters burned into a captive’s forearm. numbers can be the times

promises have been broken – or the times trust has been restored. numbers can

be the babies born in a newly created homeland – or the children lost to

another pogrom. numbers can be – the one person who stood up to intolerance and

persecution, or the uncountable masses who fell silent and succumbed. numbers

can be the people around the world you call your friends – or the face of an

enemy you don’t know well enough to accept or love.

enough. what do i know anyway? i’m just the lucky guy who gets to travel for two

months out of the busy year. i teach. i create art out of the fabric of my life.

and i travel. and this time — i got to graze with camels for just a short

while. for which i am eternally grateful.

this time next year? who knows? maybe the SOUTH east…

…asia, that is.




Middle East, 1999, chapter 26, full circle
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